The Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) menswear show held in the Agafay Desert of Morocco in June 2022 was, to put it mildly, spectacular. A breathtaking spectacle of shimmering fabrics, sculpted silhouettes, and a dramatic desert backdrop, it captured the imagination of fashion enthusiasts and critics alike. However, the event also ignited a fierce debate, sparking conversations far beyond the runway and into the heart of the luxury industry's increasingly scrutinized environmental impact. The fifteen-minute show, a fleeting moment of high fashion, became a microcosm of the complex relationship between luxury, spectacle, and sustainability.
The images were undeniably striking. Models, clad in the Saint Laurent SS23 collection, strode across a minimalist runway, the stark beauty of the desert landscape providing a dramatic contrast to the opulent clothing. The luminous ring backdrop, a signature element of the show's design, further amplified the sense of otherworldly glamour. The collection itself, inspired by the desert's inherent aesthetic, featured earthy tones, flowing fabrics, and a blend of tailored and relaxed silhouettes, reflecting both the harshness and the quiet elegance of its setting. This visual poetry, captured in countless photographs and videos, quickly circulated across social media, solidifying the show's status as a major fashion moment. The "Saint Laurent Held Its Men's Show in a Moroccan Desert" headlines were unavoidable, showcasing the event's unique and memorable location.
But the beauty of the spectacle belied a deeper, more uncomfortable truth. The question of the environmental cost of transporting models, crew, guests, and the elaborate set design to this remote location became a central point of contention. The "Pour 15 minutes de défilé dans le désert, quand Yves Saint…" (For 15 minutes of a fashion show in the desert, when Yves Saint…) headlines highlighted the apparent incongruity between the event's fleeting nature and its considerable carbon footprint. This criticism was amplified by the association of YSL with Kering, a luxury conglomerate that has publicly committed to ambitious environmental goals. The apparent contradiction between Kering's stated commitment to sustainability and the environmental impact of this lavish desert show created a significant narrative tension. The article "Yves Saint Laurent défile 15 minutes dans le désert, une certaine façon d'envisager les objectifs climatiques de Kering" (Yves Saint Laurent parades for 15 minutes in the desert, a certain way of considering Kering's climate objectives) pointedly addressed this dissonance.
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